Spoiled by Old Friends

Later that same day...
My friend Jutta picked us up and brought us to the apartment she shares with her boyfriend Bernhard. Jutta and I have known each other since the fall of 1988 when we were on the same student exchange program. It never ceases to amaze me that we have remained friends for 18 years. Heather and I met Bernhard when they came for our wedding. However, when the four of us were together, we felt as though all of us had been friends for 20 years. Jutta and Bernhard are so gracious and really spoiled us. Which is even more impressive since they both had to work. They still managed to keep our days full.

A special treat was that the day we arrived was my birthday. To celebrate, Jutta and Bernhard introduced us to the Plan A/Plan B concept. The idea is to bring Curt and Heather to a local restaurant/pub that has been highly recommended, find out it is closed or full and then bring them to another that is equally as good. We did that each night. Our first plan B restaurant was a great brew pub. Bernhard was quite impressive in snagging the last available table. After finishing dinner, we went back to the apartment and to my surprise, Jutta and Bernhard emerged from the kitchen with a homemade birthday cake. Red wine and chocolate flavored. It was awesome. As was the birthday song in which my wife joined.

Curt blows out the candles, thinking, "I already got my wish...."

Plan B on the second night involved hiking up a hill to a restaurant with a beautiful view of valley outside Stuttgart only to find out it had yet to open for the season. The view was nonetheless worth the hike. That allowed us to take a scenic cross country drive to a Besen. You must remember that we were in wine-growing country. German law allows the vintners to open their homes for several weeks of the year in order to sell the previous year’s wine to make room for the incoming yield. They usually have a small menu with farm food specialties. They are often aptly named such as “the slaughter plate.” The term Besen means broom as in what you sweep your floor with. A broom is tied up above the front door or on a pole in front of the house to signify that it is open. (This one had a very friendly dog, too; a big bonus for Heather.) Again, what a great night.

The next day was Friday and Heather and I originally planned to return to Vienna. However, Jutta’s parents called her from their vacation and insisted that Heather and I stay for the weekend so they could see us. Plus, her father wanted us to stay in a place bigger than Jutta’s apartment, which he considered tiny and unsuitable for hosting. It is not.

great hosts

Remember when I said Jutta and Bernhard are amazing hosts? Some of that definitely comes from Jutta’s parents. Jutta’s father is the mayor of the small but picturesque town Murr, which is a far out suburb of Stuttgart. He is also a member of the state legislature. His graciousness makes it little wonder that he has been reelected mayor with little problem for thirty years. Jutta’s mother is the perfect hostess. She is quick with a smile, a laugh the fills the room, a cute propensity to maybe break one or two little rules, and the world’s sharpest elbows should you try paying the bill. They are my second family in Germany. I honestly cannot go visit my former family from my exchange without also going to Murr.

Upon arrival in Murr, we had what I think was a five course breakfast. Pants already tight from four days in Ottenheim got a little more snug. After that, Jutta’s father had to go fire the starting pistol to begin the local half –marathon. He would meet us that afternoon as the rest of us went to Schwäbish Hall, a beautiful city with much of its Middle Ages charm still intact. We toured for the day until the boss met us to bring us for dinner. The surprise was is that Jutta’s mother has a Mercedes convertible that is great for driving on a sunny day over the winding country roads. Heather did not pass up the opportunity to ride shotgun. As a passenger in the car behind, all I could see for the next hour was a mass of Heather’s hair blowing in the wind and an occasional glimpse of her beaming grim. Possible ideas for our future car?

from the cathedral at Schwäbish Hall

toward the cathedral (on the right)

Now, no tour of Murr is complete without the Burgermeister’s (mayor) Tour. I have received it several times but it changes each time. One gets to see picturesque vineyards, the historical church and first homes, and of course, city hall. This is the mayor’s pride and joy. But this tour was the best as he was bringing through an American architect. It was truly a treat to watch him with obvious pride show Heather the little details that went into the design. Unfortunately, the tour was cut short as we had our train back to Vienna to catch.
But one does not leave Murr empty handed. Two bottles of locally produced red wine (which is absolutely fabulous. I’m not making that up. Heather and I are trying to see if there is a way to order it off the internet), a book from the art gallery we visited, the books on the history of Murr, my birthday present, candy, and a computer printer (I don’t know where to begin so I won’t explain other than to say Jutta and Bernhard are very generous). In addition to the beautiful presents from Ottos, Heather and I headed back to Vienna with several more bags than with which we left.

Yes, we were spoiled rotten by our friends in Germany.